Dot for the Day.

Reflections of a lost soul in paradise

Saturday, December 29, 2007


If I have to nominate one person from all of Lakshadweep to be Person of the Year, I’d pick my idiosyncratic cook Shajahan..No contest really...Its not so much the fact that he’s a eunuch, a half woman if you may, and has ‘boyfriends’, or even the fact that his cooking surpasses all conceivable adjectives (even the bad ones)…It’s who he Is.
A gazillion monkeys given infinite time would perhaps compose all of Shakespeare’s work but I’ll bet they wouldn’t even come close to scratching the surface of Shajahan’s mind. He is what he does and what he does is, well, pretty much anything! He’s not just unpredictable but his lack of logic is in itself so random that any bookie worth his salt I’m sure would commit hara-kiri rather than place the odds on Shajahan’s next move. Let’s just say Kasparov wouldn’t stand a chance if Shajahan ever took to chess.

I’ll never forget the day my colleague A and I first made Shajahan’s acquaintance. Shajitha chechi brought him over on the second day after our arrival to Agatti..He seemed to me at the time like such a paavam palli, with his lank frame and long arms, a timid soul in a lungi, who would jump if we even so much as sneezed in his effeminate presence. I remember thinking that if we were to ever have a ‘safe’ male cook in the islands we couldn’t have picked a better candidate - provided of course he didn’t have ‘lesbian’ tendencies (god forbid).

It was amusing at first – giving him instructions, watching him nod vigorously and then finding out later that none of them had been carried out. For example, if we told Shajahan that he had to make a vegetarian curry everyday, he’d do it that day and maybe the next, but beyond that his concept of “everyday” would fail him and he’d have to be told all over again. And it wasn’t just vegetarian curries of course. It was everything! We figured initially that it was just a communication gap that could easily be bridged. (We were so naïve). Anyway we had our local friend Sallu come in and tell him everything in malayalam but somehow that didn’t have any tangible effect. We figured it wasn’t a memory problem or an Attitude problem (hah). It was just..well..what I’d really like to call – The Shajahan Factor.

The Shajahan Factor is an abstract phenomenon. It is to this day mysterious, unquantifiable and unreseached. But it is definitely not to be underestimated.
It wasn’t just our three square meals a day that depended on it but Shajahan and his eccentricities extended from being a mere domestic challenge to becoming an everyday battle to preserve our very sanity! I cannot the count the number of times when he’s had us both stumped out of our senses over the most basic of household chores like bringing in drinking water everyday from the rainwater tank. He seemed to have something against doing it even though the tank is practically on our doorstep. As I mentioned, Shajahan’s grasp of the concept of ‘everyday’ is as it is rather weak, but supposing on top of that, he’d intentionally decided (for no apparent reason) that A and I didn’t need to drink any more water again therefore making the trip to the tank irrelevant, how did the man expect to cook anything if there wasn’t any clean drinking water? He was, after all a cook. Well, the thing about Shajahan is that when faced with such a self-made crisis, instead of doing the obvious, which is to step outside and get more water, he’d “improvise” and come up with an alternative without having to go outside. He’d just use water from the wash basin or sink, mostly use it unboiled and of course carefully make sure not tell us anything about the whole thing.
No ordinary human brain could even want to concoct such random problems in the first place not to mention, come up with equally bizarre solutions (that’s also unhygienic by the way)..But then again Shajahan is no ordinary being. And its not that he’s evil, lazy, or uncaring. He’s..well..He’s Shajahan! (ta daa). He is beyond Logic. He is beyond Reason. Somewhere in that conical head of his is a brain that can stump a million Freuds and a billion more Einsteins.

A more recent episode revealed Shajahan’s amazing mathematical abilities. When A’s husband stayed with us for a month in between, Shajahan would often make coconut dosa-pies for breakfast (don’t ask me what a coconut dosa-pie is, it tastes like what it sounds like and I sure as hell don’t want to know more). So anyway, he would make this pie thing on more than one occasion for us and every single time he would cut it up himself into exactly 10 pieces. For the three of us. It was a mystery who the 10th piece was for. Not him surely. Perhaps he thought A’s husband, being the ‘man of the house’, deserved an extra piece. There’s also a slight chance he did it to test OUR skills of division. Even then, how does one cut a circle into ten equal pieces anyway? I guess it’s obviously Shajahan’s style to cut things into an indivisible number of pieces but to make all the pieces precisely the same size. Mathematical genius, vindictive fiend or just a dumbass? I’ll never know..

Another famous characteristic of Shajahan is to indulge in underground bartering of our provisions with our neighbors. We supposedly know nothing about it. We only witness a kilo of our grapes disappearing mysteriously from the fridge (the bowl came back though) and sooner or later we’d have extra eggs for breakfast, lunch and dinner when neither of us have bought any eggs at all. Or one half kilo of chicken we’d buy would last for a month. No matter how good he is at dividing food up, even Shajahan can’t make one chicken last that long. It’s not an openly apparent system of exchange however. Sometimes eggs borrowed today would result in an exchange (maybe) a few weeks or months later if there was any exchange at all. It remained a mystery but we trusted Shajahan. He’s not a criminal mastermind or a bootlegger..He’s…yep..you guessed it..He’s Shajahan.

I got another one. There was a time when Shajahan declared war on laundry. And as was the norm for him, it was entirely unprovoked and lacked all sense. He would just refuse to wash clothes but only on the Day we asked him to do it. On those days he would pull a long face and plead “tomorrow uh..please?”. Nonetheless, those ‘tomorrows’ would hold good enough and he’d promptly wash the whole load the next day, using an entire sachet for less than one bucket. (The clothes would be soapy but it would be washed.) It’s as if he required a whole day of mental psyching to just to tackle his evil nemesis - the plastic bucket. And then as quickly as the war had begun and we were just getting used to telling him about laundry one extra day in advance, he declared a truce and accepted whatever he had to do with as little as a shy nod of his head. It’s all we could do to keep from laughing hysterically at him.

Well..I guess Shajahan’s escapades will continue to entertain me, mystify me, haunt me and annoy me for as long as I’m here, but I am certain that when the time comes for me to leave the islands for good, I won’t just be taking memories of beautiful white sands and swaying palms, I will also be taking memories of that irrepressible enigma that is, after all, my darling ex-cook Shajahan.



This is actually a post-dated entry..a sort of journal entry I wrote last December when I'd just finished my scuba diving course...seeing as it's been one of the biggest highlights of my life in Lakshadweep so far, this blog would be incomplete without mention of it..


26th December 2006
Kavaratti Island, Lakshadweep


Today I am finally a certified PADI Open Water Scuba Diver. At the end of these 13 days, I leave the Dolphin Dive center, Kavaratti Island with a sense of satisfaction and warmth not to mention memories to last me for a long time to come..I have received training from one of the most professional dive masters in the country in one of the worlds most beautiful places. Since my training was sponsored by WII, the course didn’t cost me a cent but for the experiences I have had over the past two weeks, I would have gladly paid a fortune..I have made new friends and shared fascinating experiences on both land and underwater. I will especially never forget Chandru Uncle from the visiting ARSI Ham radio team that had come to set up a station in the Lakshadweep for the very first time...Such a wonderful old gentleman.. I’ll never forget all our lunchtime conversations under the shack at the Dive center. He told me once that normal people are prisoners of their own minds. They set their own boundaries and are forever confined by it. It’s the crazy people who really live life, grabbing it by the throat with their spirit and sense of adventure. I guess in that sense Chandru Uncle is self-admittedly as crazy as it gets..The things hes done..He's 70 years old but he’s driven his car from Bangalore to Malaysia, broken a record for operating the highest amateur radio station at 17800 feet, gone mountaineering, scuba diving, sailing ,wind surfing, visited more than 50 countries reaching as far as the Arctic Circle, and he’s still raring to go!..next stop.Manasarowar, Tibet and Beijing to watch the next Olympics..hes driving down of course..He wouldn’t have it any other way..oh and in the meantime, he's getting his pilot’s licence so he can fly down next year to get his Scuba diving certificate! He is definitely a treasure trove of knowledge, an intrepid traveler, inspirer.. but mostly..he’s just a grand old timer with a killer sense of humour..Today when we were discussing his many road trips, I asked him what he drives..and his instant reply was 'mostly himself crazy' . That’s Chandru Uncle in a nutshell..My dive instructor Shaukat Ali had a brainwave when he asked him to ‘present’ my course certificate to me. I considered it a blessing that I was truly fortunate to receive.

As for the diving itself, most people never forget their first dive and I’m no different. For my first dive at ‘The Wall of Wonder’ I did something I’ve always wanted to do (but I never imagined I’d do underwater). I stepped off a cliff and felt nothing beneath me..

Enveloped by the blue coolness of the ocean..watching the shimmering sunlit waves from beneath the surface..it was so surreal..Behind me was a wall exploding in a vibrancy of colour and form..with corals, sea fans and fishes of every imaginable shape and size..even an occasional green turtle swimming by..And beneath me, the seemingly bottomless depths disappearing in a haze of deep purple..Suffice to say..It took my breath away..I could hear Oasis’ ‘Wonderwall’ playing in my head…Without a doubt the dive was an adrenaline rush but it was also so much more..It felt like what I can best describe as a glimpse of “the other side”, clichéd as it may seem..but it seemed like like I had entered into an almost parallel dimension for the first time, one that not too many people have seen and the experience was in a sense transcendental if not spiritual..

My last dive was also one that I’m not likely to forget too soon..it was a Drift dive which means we were diving in a strong current. We were visiting ‘Turtle’s Nest’ where a hundred turtles both green turtles and hawksbills congregate to rest, and perhaps breed..Carried by the current, I literally felt like I was flying underwater watching interesting creatures seldom seen, pass me by..As if the hundred turtles, the steely-eyed barracudas and strange-looking bat fish weren’t enough, a rare pod of playful spinner dolphins raced by just as we were surfacing..Something tells me (and its not just my instructor) that it’ll be a snowy day in the Sahara before I get to have a dive like that again..

At the end of this course, I guess I can say with every certainty that there is no singular experience on this planet even remotely as unique as scuba diving. To me, it’s been incredibly gratifying not just because it’s what I’ve always wanted to do, but the feeling of entering into another world and catching a glimpse of the spectacular beauty of Lakshadweep’s underwater life is something that I am truly grateful to have not missed in this lifetime..